48km

4 days, 3 nights

Tasmania

September 2022

Framed by the Tasman Peninsula, the Three Capes Track falls in the homeland of Pydairerme clan of the Oyster Bay nation (Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service, 2025). I’d like to acknowledge and pay my respects to the enduring cultural connection of the traditional custodians to the land, sea, waterways and sky. Walking on this country as a visitor is a reminder that this land was never ceded. The scenery of the Tasman Peninsula is witnessing nature at its most impressive; strong, resistant, bold and eternal. The roaring sound of waves a tribute to the unrelenting resilience and vitality of a culture that survives and endures time.

The Three Capes Track is a beautifully scenic walk from Port Arthur to Fortescue Bay with diverse landscapes including sea cliffs, eucalypt forest, rock pinnacles and small pockets of lush rainforest. This is one of the most scenic walks I have done, and it’s a great introductory walk or suitable for someone who is looking for a trail with a bit more luxury. There are so many exciting moments from taking the boat from Port Arthur to the start of the walk, to traversing the ridge of the tallest sea cliffs in the Southern Hemisphere (Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service, 2025)! I am afraid of heights and at times this walk pushed me to my vertigo limits, but this was a welcome challenge alongside the comforts of beautiful cabins each night. I loved the incredible wildlife along this trek including butterflies, whales, birds, wombats, echidnas and fur seals!!

This was the first solo multi-day walk I ever did after a recommendation from a friend. It was a great place to start because it’s very safe, requires almost no navigation skills, and it’s a shorter distance. There is also the added benefit of fellow walkers to connect with if you’d like, or the freedom to walk alone if you’d prefer. The Three Capes Track has limited numbers due to the cabin accommodation so it does require bookings. The upside is that this means there aren’t too many people on the walk at one time, the environmental impact of walkers can be better managed, and almost everyone is walking in the same direction so you still get a sense of walking alone rather than in a big group. At the same time, there is the safety of a clear path and rangers at each cabin who will check off your name once you arrive. This is an incredible first walk if you’re wanting to dip your toes into multi-day hiking, and you won’t compromise on amazing views and nature for the added comfort and safety!

The Three Capes Track has it’s own website with all the information you need here: Three Capes Track. All the information below is taken from my own experience when I did the walk in 2022, and I would encourage you to read the website in case anything has changed since I did the walk.

What’s Ahead:

Click the links to jump ahead:

• Planning & Costs
• Accommodation
• Route
• Packing List
• Day 0: Brisbane to Hobart
• Day 1: Port Arthur to Surveyors Cabin
• Day 2: Surveyors Cabin to Munro Cabin
• Day 3: Munro Cabin to Retakunna Cabin
• Day 4: Retakunna Cabin to Fortescue Bay
• Reflections: Peaks & Pits

Planning & Costs:

The Three Capes Track does take some pre-planning as you will need to pre-book your spot on the walk and arrange transport to and from the trail. I flew to Hobart from Brisbane the day before and spent a night at a local hostel (see more info under Day 0).

You will need to make your booking on the Three Capes Track website and the dates can book out far in advance. In saying that, I think I got mine at a reduced price because I booked mine at late notice so still worth checking availability if you’re considering going last minute. The cost is also different depending on the time of year, and you can sometimes get great discounts if you can go outside of peak seasons.

The tickets include access to the Port Arthur Historic Site (including secure locker access and car parking), the Pennicott Wilderness Journey (which gets you to the start of the walk at Denmans Cove), accommodation, bus transfer back to Port Arthur from Fortescue Bay, and a guide book with maps.

The ticket does not include transfers to Port Arthur from Hobart, or transfer back to Hobart. Fortunately this is easy to organise but takes a little planning!

Pennicott Wilderness Journeys provides a shuttle that will take you from Hobart to Port Arthur. The shuttle leaves quite early so you will be at Port Arthur with a few hours to spare to explore the historic site. There is also a shuttle that will take you back to Hobart at the end of your trip. On the way home, they still stop at Port Arthur so you can get out and collect any belongings you may have left in the storage locker. It was really easy to book and take the bus, and from memory it was also really affordable. I think there are other providers that will also provide transport so worth doing your research.

Accommodation:

All the information you need about the accommodation is available on the website. The cabins are absolutely beautiful and are located with stunning views. The cabins have been designed to be more environmentally mindful, and they are made with timber in architectural design. The cabin site it split up into three sections: Sleeping spaces/cabin, communal and cooking space, and toilets.

There are either 4 bed or 8 bed sleeping cabins that have a fancier version of a wooden bunk beds (these are nice and sturdy so don’t let ‘bunk bed’ scare you). The sleeping cabin is assigned to you so there are no issues around figuring out where to sleep. My sleeping cabins were always all female but I think you can also request to share a sleeping cabin with specific people if you’re travelling with others. There are no pillows, sleeping bags or sheets so you will need to take these if you want them. I only took a sleeping bag and I just used my puffer jacket as a pillow. I did find the sleeping cabins cold overnight so just be mindful of taking a warm enough sleeping bag.

The toilets are separate to the cabins and were always very clean. There was a bucket shower at one of the cabins which was really cool, so I’d say bring a towel in case you want to use this!

The communal spaces are quite large but also have a cosy feel. There is a nice seating area, a fire/heater and a cooking area with gas stovetops. This is great because it means that you don’t really need to take any cooking gear, just a plate/bowl and a spork will do. I took a small thermos and it was really nice to have a hot drink during the day while walking, so I do recommend that. You will have to wait until a stovetop is free before you can cook, but it wasn’t an issue when I walked because people were streaming in and out so I didn’t have to wait long. The communal space was really friendly, and the rangers also stay there so you can have a chat with them. My group was pretty sociable and we played boardgames most nights.

The cabins also have water tanks and you don’t have to purify the water (it’s fresh rainwater and the gutters are protected so possums can’t get in the roof). Note that there isn’t any other water source each day so you need to fill up properly at the cabins.

Route:

Overall, the route has a good mix of flat sections with some large climbs. The walking surface is generally very stable and is usually timber boardwalks, stone or gravel. The route is very straight-forward and it would be difficult to get lost! You will receive an Encounters on the Edge booklet with information including a map and elevation profile when you check-in at Port Arthur. Encounters on the Edge is pretty cool because it provides information and stories on lots of different points of interest along the walk, including the 40 Storyseats that exist along the path. I kept it handy most of the walk to keep reading these stories.

You can find a copy of the map and elevation profile here.

	Journey	Distance
Day 1	Catch a boat from Port Arthur to Denmans Cove. Walk Denmans Cove to Surveyors Cabin	4km
Day 2	Walk Surveyors Cabin to Munro Cabin	11km
Day 3	Walk from Munro Cabin to Cape Pillar, back to Munro Cabin. Walk Munro Cabin to Retakunna Cabin	19km
Day 4	Walk Retakunna Cabin to Fortescue Bay	14km

Packing List

GEAR Hiking pack (I took a 60L pack because that’s what I had available, but 40-50L would suit) Pack rain cover Dry bags (to put belongings inside to keep dry) Sleeping bag Sleeping bag liner Water bottle/bladder (at least 2L) Small lightweight backpack (ideally one you can roll-up or pack down easily Pillow (or just stuff your clothes into a dry bag to make a pillow)	CLOTHING Thermal top Thermal pants 1x sports bra 2x hiking socks 1x night socks Walking shorts/pants Walking shirt Waterproof jacket Waterproof pants Camp pants Puffer/down jacket Fleece Trail runners/hiking boots Sandals (for camp) Hat Sunnies
COOKING Bowl/plate Spork Mug Food for 4 days	FIRST AID & SAFETY Bug repellent Snake bite bandage Bandaids Blister kits Hand sanitiser Pain killers/Analgesia Antihistamine Sports tape Tweezers Scissors Antiseptic cream Alcohol wipes
TOILETRIES Sunscreen Lip balm Toothbrush Toothpaste Hairbrush Deodorant (optional)	OPTIONAL Microfiber towel Book Phone charger Head torch Camera Binoculars Thermos

Day 0: Brisbane to Hobart

I flew from Brisbane to Hobart the day before I planned to start the walk. I booked a hostel near the city which would make it easy for me to catch the shuttle to Port Arthur the next day. I purchased all of my food for the trip from a local Woolies and re-packed my bag, taking out anything that I didn’t plan to take on the walk and placing this in a separate bag (I planned to store this in the locker storage at Port Arthur as I had extra clothes for the rest of my Tassie trip). If you get really stuck and don’t have the time to purchase food beforehand, you can buy high-protein dehydrated meals at Port Arthur but they are more expensive and you have less choice, but is good as a back-up. I had a nice dinner out and an early bed in preparation for the next day’s adventure!

Day 1: Port Arthur to Surveyors Cabin (4km)

I was up early and walked to Pennicott Wilderness Journeys Hobart down by the waterfront for 7:15AM. I checked-in at the office and the shuttle was on its way to Port Arthur by 7:45AM.

At Port Arthur, I checked-in for the walk including completing the safety forms and left my spare bag in the storage lockers. Here I received my info pack which included a map and my ticket for the boat trip. I also had to decide which boat time time to take, and I ended up taking the earlier boat at 11:30AM but if you want more time to check out Port Arthur you should definitely take the later boat. With a bit of time to spare, I decided to have a look around the historic Port Arthur site before heading down to the jetty to catch my boat.

At this point I was feeling a little bit nervy and unsure of what to expect but I loved the boat trip over to Denmans Cove! The crew were super knowledgeable about the scenery, the geography and the history around us. I definitely recommend using the provided rain jackets because the ocean spray gets pretty hectic but it was such a fun way to start the walk! They take you right under these enormous sea cliffs and we even got close to a pod of fur seals frolicking in the water!!

I wish we had even longer on the boat (it was a 75minute tour) but eventually the boat started pulling into a small cove. The tide was pretty high when we arrived, so it was shoes off and straight into the water (it only came up to about mid-shins). The water and the cove is absolutely pristine and reminded me of a scene from the Famous Five adventures. I had some lunch here and enjoyed the sand before starting walking. This was such an easy day of walking that I would recommend spending longer at the cove if it’s good weather because you only need a couple of hours to make it to camp. The first part of the track is mostly flat through eucalypt bush and ocean views become a little more rare as you start to move away from the coast. Eventually you come to a timber boardwalk which leads through heath to Surveyors cabin. The ranger greeted me and ticked my name off the list before assigning me my room.

After settling into my room, I headed to the communal cabin to start cooking and meet the others. The sunset was incredible and I felt a real sense of achievement for my first day of solo walking. I read my book in the communal space (from memory there isn’t any light in the sleeping cabins) before heading off to sleep.

Surveyors Cabin:

This cabin was so stunning! It has incredible panoramic views across the coastal heath and looking out to Cape Raoul. The best part was a large outdoor seating area to enjoy the last of the sunshine before it dipped behind the horizon. The deck seconded as a stargazing platform and the nightsky was something to behold!

Peaks & Pits

PEAK: Literally everything but standout is the boat trip!

PIT: Nothing – maybe I wish I had stayed longer at the cove.

Day 2: Surveyors Cabin to Munro Cabin (11km)

Day 2 again brought incredible sunny weather. The path started flat and wound along the coast before starting the climb to Arthur’s Peak. The climb is a bit gruelling but is not too long. And here begins the epic views of cold grey sea cliffs. This was the perfect whale-watching spot and a great place for a morning tea rest with views out to Cape Raoul and Crescent Bay! Then there is a second climb up Crescent Mountain before the day evens out.

I really loved the second part of this day as the walk meandered through eucalypt forest and the coastal heath. As it was September, there were lots of flowers and butterflies starting to appear. It’s good to note that large portions of this day are very exposed and you will be at the will of the elements.

Again the final section of the track was along timber boardwalk which led to Munro cabin with dramatic views out to Munro Bight and Cape Hauy. Munro has a luxurious surprise because it has two hot outdoor bucket showers! This was so fun and relaxing after a hot day walking. After getting clean, it was cards with new friends, dinner and a prep-talk from the ranger about the next day before heading off to bed.

Munro Cabin:

Munro cabin is set out differently to Surveyors cabin and it almost split into two sections. This is a beautiful spot because of the perspective; it faces directly towards a platform that overlooks Munro Bight and Cape Hauy. Golden hour is pretty special so make sure you get there early enough to catch the sun as it starts to go down. Also I suggest getting there early to ensure that you get a hot shower. I loved the outdoor shower, it was really refreshing and a cool experience in the beautiful late sunshine and chorus of native birds.

Peaks & Pits:

PEAK: Incredible close-up scenery of butterflies and flowers in stunning sunshine!! Honourable mention for the outdoor shower.

PIT: Uphill sections were tough but very doable.

Day 3:  Munro Cabin to Retakunna Cabin via Cape Pillar (19km)

We woke to thick mist and constant drizzle of rain. This was the biggest day of walking so I was up and moving by about 8AM. Day 3 is interesting because there are essentially two parts. Firstly, you leave your big pack at Munro and take a small day-pack as you walk from Munro to Cape Pillar which is at the end of the peninsula. After checking-out Cape Pillar, you turn back on yourself and return via the route you came, ending back at Munro. From Munro, you collect your big pack and continue on to Retakunna which involves retracing some steps from the day before.

I started off the day moving pretty quickly and the walking was fairly easy. The mist was really thick and for sections it was hard to see more than a few meters ahead. This is not only the longest day, but it also has some of the most epic viewpoints. This was the day I was most worried about because of the heights including a small single-file section at Cape Pillar leading up to The Blade. This was made worse by the rain, wind and slippery rocks and when I eventually arrived at Cape Pillar, I made some small progress before returning back down with the help of a nice man who let me hold his hand. Momentarily I felt a bit defeated, but ultimately was impressed I even made it a few steps up before I started scooting down the steps on my bum.

The clouds cleared just long enough to see across to Tasman Island before they closed in again. The weather was so misty that some people couldn’t see Tasman Island at all, so I was pretty lucky. I made the return trip to Munro, collected my big pack and started heading towards Retakunna. This was the only day I felt close to getting lost, but the signage is pretty clear. As I arrived into camp, the clouds were starting to lift and some beautiful stars were starting to appear. This was a really fun night at the cabin as everyone shared their stories of the day and huddled around the fire to keep warm.

Retakunna Cabin:

This cabin was again stunning and I have no complaints. There is no epic view, but it’s nestled into the bushland in a shy, non-assuming way, and makes for the perfect cosy cabin.

Peaks & Pits:

PEAK: Facing some fears and taking a few baby steps up towards The Blade.

PIT: Constant rain and missed some of the big views.

Day 4: Retakunna Cabin to Fortescue Bay (14km)

Let me just start by saying I LOVED this day! I woke up and it was a stunning day, the bad weather had completely moved on and there was that magical post-rain feeling and the organic smell of eucalyptus and wet earth. The day started with a big climb up Mount Fortescue which was challenging but definitely doable, just lots of steps. The variation in scenery is pretty amazing, with even a small pocket of lush rainforest which is apparently the result of the way cold air moves up the mountain and catches to create a pocket of lush green forest. More stunning whale watching opportunities lay at the top of the mountain before heading out to Cape Hauy. There is a spot to drop the big pack and again take a smaller backpack to walk out to Cape Hauy.

I just loved the scenery here, it so was wild, so epic, and I was feeling the awe as dolerite columns rose proudly from the rockbed. Then I came to the lookout and saw the Totem Pole in all its glory, majestic and powerful as it rises out of the thrashing ocean. I didn’t see any rockclimbers that day, but the rangers told us that it’s an internationally renowned climbing spot and some serious injuries have occurred there. I stayed here for a while and just enjoyed the immensity of the stone, the ocean and feeling that separation of human and nature finally dissolve. Feeling the magnitude of the environment around me and understanding just how little I have control in the world was a pretty freeing and peaceful experience.

I finally decided to take on the final stretch which is mostly downhill to Fortescue Bay. It was pretty cold and the beach was choppy and full of foam, but I was buoyed by my adventure and convinced another woman to go swimming with me in the freezing water. It was a perfect way to finish the trip!

The shuttle bus took me back to Port Arthur to collect my belongings from the locked storage before I headed back to Hobart for a couple of beers and a good sleep. There are two shuttle buses in the afternoon at 2:30PM and 4:00PM and you can choose whichever is best. I took the later bus which worked well for me because I had a swim, but if the weather isn’t so good it would be nicer to get on the earlier bus.

Peaks & Pits

PEAK: Climbing out to Cape Hauy and swimming at Fortescue Bay.

PIT: Nothing – this day was literally perfect!

Reflections: Peaks & Pits

1. I would so recommend this walk to anyone, but especially people who are first-timers or who don’t feel up to camping. This walk does not compromise on scenery, and it’s a really welcoming start to multi-day hiking.
2. This trip set something off in me and I have been doing multi-day hikes pretty consistently since this trip. I am really excited to make it back to Tassie to take on some more of the walks, because the wildness in Tassie (even on a more luxurious walk like this) is fairly unmatched.
3. This is still the only solo trip I have done, and it was a really important trip for me to get some independence and trust my own skills, but it also taught me how much I enjoy the social side of walking with friends and creating new memories with others.
4. The beauty of this walk is something else! There’s something special about the juxtaposition of the wild landscape and the warm, cosy but architectural cabins and carefully crafted trail that makes for an artwork of a hike.

I’m glad I brought:

My top recommendations for this trip are:

• Waterproof pants! Be prepared for all weather conditions and take waterproof pants if you have them.
• A warm sleeping bag. If it’s warm weather, you don’t have to sleep in it but I regretted not having something a little bit warmer.
• A phone, a camera, paint supplies – whatever works for you but make sure you have something to capture this because the views and the up-close nature is pretty exceptional!
• I’m a big fan of the baby thermos and the option to have a nice cuppa after a few hours walking – especially when it’s raining.

What I’d do differently:

• Take more breaks and enjoy the sights! The walking is pretty easy and you have loads of time to complete those km’s so stop and take some nice long breaks. Especially on day one when you arrive at Denmans Cove, don’t feel the pressure to get walking straight away, enjoy the sound of the waves lapping the beach, the smell of the salt and the endless blue. This spot is pretty special so make sure you appreciate it.
• Binoculars! It’s whales, birds and seals galore! All much better appreciated with a set of binoculars.